The ferry into Valbona might be the best part of the whole trip. That sounds like a strange thing to say about a hike, but the Lake Koman ferry is genuinely one of the more spectacular things I have done. It was the main reason we chose to do the route from Valbona to Theth rather than the other way around. Two hours through a narrow gorge with cliffs rising straight out of the water on both sides. If you are planning this trip, do not skip it.
We flew into Tirana, took the two hour train to Shkoder, and used the transport organised through Mi Casa Hostel to get up to Valbona. It is a combination of car, ferry, and car again, takes around four hours, costs 25 euros each, and leaves at 7am. If you miss it you are waiting another day.
When to Go
We went in November because it was the only time that worked within our trip. I would not plan to go in November. Most restaurants and guesthouses in both Valbona and Theth are closed by then, the days are shorter, the weather is wetter, and visibility on the crossing itself can be poor. The trail can also become impassable in late November depending on conditions, so if you do go that late in the year, watch the forecast and wait for a good window.
The better times are June through September. The days are long, the weather is warmer, visibility is better, and there is a cafe near the summit that is sometimes open during the busier months. The hike is more enjoyable and more straightforward.
If you want quiet trails and do not mind variable weather, October is a reasonable compromise.
The Crossing
The route is 14.6km with around 960m of elevation gain. Most people do it one way, Valbona to Theth, taking between five and seven hours depending on pace.
We set off early from Valbona and climbed through pine and beech forest toward the Valbona Pass at around 1800m. The first half is gradual and forested. Above the treeline the trail opens up and on a clear day the pass reveals a sweeping view down into a wide valley below, the kind of view that makes the climb worth it. We were in low cloud and wet conditions for the entire crossing and saw almost none of it. The valley was completely hidden. It is one of the genuine trade-offs of going late in the year and one of the better reasons to go in summer when you can actually see what you are standing above.
My girlfriend was wearing an Adidas sport jacket that was not keeping up with the wet conditions.
The trail was quiet. We had it almost entirely to ourselves, from the first steps out of Valbona all the way into Theth.
What we did not expect was the company. Two stray dogs joined us at the very start in Valbona and walked every single kilometre with us, over the pass and all the way down into Theth. They knew the route better than we did and never dropped back. That alone made the day.
Bears
Bears are present in the Albanian Alps. Sightings are rare but they are there. Make noise on the trail, especially in the forested lower sections.
Theth
Theth is a small village in a steep sided valley, quieter than Valbona and arguably more scenic. In November almost everything was closed. We found one restaurant open and ate there twice. All three of us got food poisoning. Before you eat anywhere, check the reviews. We found others who had reported the same experience at the same place.
Getting Out
Mi Casa Hostel in Shkoder organises transport back from Theth for 12 euros. Book it before you arrive, not when you get there.
Gear
Six or seven hours on a mountain trail in wet, variable conditions will sort out what your kit is actually worth. A waterproof jacket that is genuinely waterproof matters. So do trekking poles on the descent.
If you are buying gear for a trip like this, or selling what you have got sitting unused after one, SummitSwap is a secondhand outdoor gear marketplace built by Australians who use this stuff. Waterproof shells, trekking poles, layering systems, all listed by people who have actually taken them out.
Valbona to Theth, November 2025.